‘Here the sun is more intense, warmer and the mountains are redder, chestnuts, vines, almost and figs are grown here and the inhabitants are good, educated and kind… ‘ Hermann Hesse, Noble prize winner for literature, 1946

Stretching from snowcapped mountains, Alpine lakes and fields of wildflowers to the mild Mediterranean climate of Lake Maggiore and Lake Lugano, the Ticino, with its unique culture and history, is the most southerly and Italian-speaking canton of Switzerland. But language is not the only common thread with the bordering country. Once under the rule of the Milanese, this area officially entered the Swiss Confederation in 1803. The result is a perfect blend of an Italian atmosphere, with the warmth and simplicity of its people, the divine food and the excellent wines, and Swiss efficiency. Very few people know of Ticino, and its exceptional topography inspires a great sense of awe. Here, we enjoy a serenity rarely found elsewhere on the trails of the Alps. We hike from beautiful Alpine regions filled with colorful carpets of wildflowers and numerous Alpine lakes to quiet valleys where centuries-old stone villages, emerald-green rivers, and impressive waterfalls soften the landscape.

Our hiking and walking forays take us to high summer grazing pastures, where the most sought-after cheeses are still produced in the original artisanal way and where we will have the chance to learn the process of cheese making and taste some of this wonderful product. Well-maintained, comfortable trails lead us along panoramic ridges that yield unparalleled views of Lake Maggiore, Lake Lugano, and the Alps, while the Castles of Bellinzona – considered amongst the finest examples of medieval fortification architecture in Switzerland dating back to the 15th century – provide a fascinating glimpse into the area’s defining role as a major trading route and strategic stronghold between Rome and Switzerland.

DAY 1: Zurich – Airolo

Highlights: Scenic train ride through Alps, explore Airolo
We meet at the Zurich Central train station (Hauptbanof) and take a scenic train ride through the Alps and the historical Gotthard Tunnel to our first hotel in Airolo, a hiking paradise at the northern end of Ticino. The Swiss Confederation consists of 26 cantons, which function like individual states, with their own government and representatives. Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian and Romanche, and Ticino is the Italian-Speaking canton of the confederation.

Airolo is situated at the northern end of the Ticino and at the top of the Leventina Valley, a long, scenic gash in the Swiss Alps that starts in the rugged Gotthard Massif and ends near rich farmland by Lake Maggiore. This small town is the gateway to hiking in one of the most beautiful areas in the Alps.

In the early afternoon we’ll explore our immediate surroundings, before a quick trip overview and dinner at our conveniently situated, family-run mountain hotel. Restaurant Forni in the hotel is sought after for its excellent cuisine featuring regional and house specialties.

Overnight in Airolo at Hotel Forni; www.forni.ch
Activity: Light walking around Airolo

DAY 2: The Valle Bedretto

Highlights: Hike Valle Bedretto valley, visit to cheese artisan
The Valle Bedretto, located at the northwestern edge of Ticino, is one of the region’s most remote and pristine alpine valleys. Here, the Ticino River starts its 40-mile journey to Lake Maggiore. The name comes from the local dialect bedra, the birch tree, which proliferates in that area. A short transfer takes us to the trailhead.

We then hike into Valle Bedretto, a valley particularly beautiful due to its wild landscape and richness of colors, meandering through fir and larch forests, summer pastures filled with blueberry bushes and rhododendrons, enjoying splendid views of the surrounding mountains and exquisite landscape. Along the way, we will pass a summer grazing pasture where, if the shepherds are present, we may buy some of the famous ‘Cristallina’ cheese, made on the premises, for our picnic lunch in a panoramic setting.

After lunch in a spectacular panoramic setting, we start our descent into the valley floor, where we have the option to stop for a refreshing drink or a coffee before we return to Airolo.

Overnight in Airolo at Hotel Forni; www.forni.ch
Activity & Distance: hiking approx. 4.5 – 5 hours 14 – 15km/8 – 9.5 miles, at 538 m/1,765 ft., 205 m/673 ft. elevation

DAY 3: Piora region

Highlights: Explore Piora Alpine region, visit to a cheese farm, lunch at a rifugio (hut), transfer to Locarno
We’ll make our way to the Piora region, a spectacular Alpine region and a national nature conservation area of considerable beauty and scientific interest, so much so that the biology department of Zurich University has converted an old farmhouse into a research station on the shore of one of the few dozen alpine lakes. The region is also home to 300 species of wildflowers, blooming in perfect harmony from mid June to the end of August.

Our circular, panoramic hike takes us past several of the emerald-green Alpine lakes, through colorful fields of wildflowers and grazing pastures. Here, a huge diversity of flora and fauna thrive, and perfect vantage points will yield great views of the surrounding peaks. We will also visit a cheese farm, where Piora, one of the most renowned cheeses from Ticino is made and, incidentally, exported to Kentucky, USA, home to a small community of people from Ticino.

After a light lunch at a mountain rifugio, we begin our 1.5-hour descent back to our starting point. We then transfer to Lugano, a beautiful town located on the shores of the Lake bearing the same name, to our hotel for the next two nights. This historical hotel has been in the hands of the same family for three generations and was granted a UNESCO award by ICOMOS (International Council on Monuments and Sites). Located in the city center, in close proximity to the lake, the hotel is the perfect blend of refined elegance and simplicity.

Overnight in Lugano at Hotel International au Lac; www.hotel-international.ch
Activity & Distance: hiking approx. 4.5 hours, 15 – 16 km/9 – 10 miles at 283 m/928 ft. elevation

DAY 4: Above Lugano

Highlights: Hike above Lugano, explore villages, pastures, medieval churches and a picnic lunch
Hiking in proximity of the Italian border and Lake Como, we breathe the Mediterranean atmosphere and, yet, we are still enclosed in a spectacular mountainous setting, the reflection of which is mirrored in the water of the lake. In days past, the trails of contraband crossed this region, and chapels and small churches sit in solitude on the high open ridges, almost a direct link between heaven and earth. We transfer by public transportation to our trailhead.

We will explore enchanting villages, sitting like an open balcony over the lake; we’ll wander rough beech forests and past grazing pastures and secluded medieval churches; we will enjoy wonderful views of Lake Lugano and the serenity of soothing combination of water, forests and mountains. We’ll have a picnic lunch in an enchanting setting before descending and returning to Lugano by public transportation. Dinner tonight is on our own.

Overnight in Lugano at Hotel International au Lac; www.hotel-international.ch or similar
Activity & Distance: hiking 3 – 5 hours – a variety of hikes are available in this area from high ridge hikes with views of Lake Lugano to canopy wooded walks. Time/distance will depend on group interest and weather.

Day 5: Monte San Giorgio – Bellinzona

Highlights: Hike UNESCO World Heritage site Monte San Giorgio, explore and picnic in Meride, winery visit and tasting of the famous Merlot, visit medieval town of Bellinzona, the second UNESCO World Heritage site in Ticino
Today we explore and hike on Monte San Giorgio, since 2003 a UNESCO World Heritage site of extraordinary scientific and cultural interest, due to its paleontological findings. At an altitude of only 1,097 m/3,600 ft., the mountain sits in a magnificent position between Switzerland and Italy, yielding a breathtaking panorama spanning from Lake Lugano to the Alps. The layers of rock on its flanks are testimonies of a geological history that goes back 400 million years and still preserves fossils of fish, reptiles and insects of the Triassic period (250 million years ago). Between 1924 and 1975 the University of Zurich discovered more than 6,000 fossils, and their work is not done yet. This wealth was subsequently used for industrial purposes. In fact, since the 15th century, mines, quarries and workmanship have greatly contributed to the artistic and economical development of the area.

We transfer by private vehicle to Meride. This beautiful hamlet, displaying an extraordinary but simple elegance in its architecture, is located at the feet of Monte San Giorgio, and is surrounded by agricultural terracing, vineyards and vegetable gardens. Our beautiful hike will take us to the summit, through a serene natural environment, past scientific excavation sites, introducing us to the wonders of this unique place. After a picnic lunch surrounded by exceptional panorama, we visit a local winery and taste some of the great wines of the area, including the famous Merlot.

We then transfer by private vehicle to Bellinzona, one of the two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ticino thanks to the three wonderful medieval castles of Castlegrande, Montebello and Sassocorbaro, which we will explore later. Bellinzona, rich in culture and traditions, is the only town in Ticino to have maintained its medieval characteristics, and its historical center – lit up at night – is truly an enthralling and delightful sight.

Our accommodation for the next three nights is conveniently situated across from the main railway station in Bellinzona, and only a few minutes walk from the exquisite historical center. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, the hotel was recently completely renovated in a modern style. The hotel’s restaurant, managed by the family, offers Mediterranean dishes and local specialties. Fresh pasta, bread and cakes are made daily by the chef and olives, olive oil and other delicacies come directly from the producers.

We will have dinner at a traditional restaurant in town.

Overnight in Bellinzona at Hotel Internazionale Bellinzona; www.hotel-international.ch
Activity & Distance: Total hiking: about 3 – 3.5 hours, 6 – 6.5 km/3.5 – 4 miles, elevation 170m/558 ft., 286 m/938 ft.

DAY 6: Valle Bavona

Highlights: Explore pastoral Valle Bavona, hike and explore the many beautiful stone villages on the valley floor, hike to glacial valley for a picnic, local cheese tasting
Valle Bavona is an integral part of the history and culture of the difficult pastoral life of Ticino. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many young and able men were forced to emigrate from this severe valley to the rolling hills of northern and central California and to Australia in search of work and a better life. Today, the valley is open only seven months out of the year, during which time the old-timers still bring their few animals to graze on the miniscule plots of land. There is no electricity and the stone houses, clustered close together for heat and protection, transport us to a different time and place.

Our local trip leader, enamored by the place, calls this valley a ‘living museum’. A private transfer takes us into the heart of the valley, where we hike and explore the many beautiful stone villages on the valley floor.

We then hike uphill into one of the glacial valleys tucked away amongst the dramatic topography of the region for a picnic in a fairytale setting next to the cauldrons where the water finds momentum before plunging to the valley floor. Here, caves and stone structures stand in testimony of the hardship of times past when, in summer, cows and sheep were brought to higher altitudes to graze.

Today, this is still the tradition here, and in many other parts of Ticino. We will also have a chance to taste a wonderful cheese made in this area with goat and cows’ milk, before heading back to Bellinzona for the night.

Dinner tonight is on our own.

Overnight in Bellinzona at Hotel Internazionale Bellinzona; www.hotel-international.ch
Activity & Distance: hiking approx. 3 – 3.5 hours, 6 – 6.5 km/3.5 – 4 miles at 170m/558 ft. 286 m/938 ft. elevation

DAY 7: Bellinzona

Highlights: Visit famous Saturday market of Bellinzona, guided tour of Castelgrande castle and historical center, picnic at Montebello castle
Today, we have a final celebration of the history, culture, tradition and gastronomy of Ticino with an extraordinary visit to Bellinzona and its cheerful, famous Saturday market! Seen in the past as the ‘key to the Alps’ from the south, and the ‘gateway to Italy’ from the north, this beautiful town – strategically positioned at the foot of the Alps and on the crossroads between the Latin and the Germanic world – still exudes a medieval charm and is the capital and government seat of Ticino. Its historical center, with its network of narrow cobblestone pathways, courtyards and old buildings, conveys a strong sense of intimacy. But what most captures the eye, even from afar, are its three castles of formidable beauty. These battlements, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000, are among the finest examples of medieval fortification in the alpine region, and the testimony to centuries of history written by the Romans, the Longobards, the Swiss and the Milanese.

We start with a guided tour of the main castle, Castelgrande, sitting grandiosely on a rocky outcrop in the center of town. During the medieval times, battlements ran across the valley to securely seal access to a very important economical region. We then stroll through the historical center and meander through the famous market, in existence since the medieval times and linked directly to the commercial aspect of the town. Today, it is a popular event, and it is considered one of the best traditions of Ticino. Colorful stalls with fresh high-quality local products, homemade specialties, clothing, handicrafts, even hardware supplies, attract visitors from near and far **.

We’ll buy our picnic lunch and, following a mule path up the hill (about 15 – 20 minutes) we reach the second castle, Montebello, where the panoramic views stretch all the way to Lake Maggiore. At Sassocorbaro, the third castle, we enjoy our lunch sitting on one of the many rocks surrounding the fortress. We then continue on to a beautiful old settlement – a precious shrine of history and art guarded by the woods like a treasure – before returning to Bellinzona.

** Please note that the September departure features the famous ‘Bacchica’ (from Bacchus, God of wine and harvest) of Bellinzona. This great popular celebration of the end of summer enlivens the town, its neighborhoods and the surrounding communities for three days and three nights. It is not only a celebration of the grape harvest, but also a display of local products, an opportunity to play local music, and more.

Overnight in Bellinzona at Hotel Internazionale Bellinzona; www.hotel-international.ch
Activity & Distance: hiking approx. 3 hours depending on interest in the historic Saturday Market of Bellinzona and hikes between the surrounding castles and vineyards.

DAY 8: DEPARTURE

After breakfast, depart at your leisure from Bellinzona train station (across street from hotel), which offers excellent connections by train to Zurich Airport. From here you can also make other connections within Switzerland or to Italy. The train ride to Zurich takes about 2.5 – 2.45 hours. Please schedule your flight accordingly.

TOUR DETAILS